Give Me Shelter

It's honestly just silly that we get to wake up to being in a place like this. 

Diamond View Lake 

15 days in, and we only have about 5 miles to hike to our next resupply point at Shelter Cove. The dusty equestrian trail finally gave way to pine needles, and Trapper Creek rushed along next to us. That, combined with the promise of pizza at the resort, spurred us to do our fastest hiking yet. 

Always time for silly poses. 

Yes. I promise this is the right way. 

On Tuesdays we wear neon green. Apparently. 

Shelter Cove was not as awesome as Fish Lake or Mazama. But we got our dusty bodies and clothes clean, and stuffed our faces. The pizza was Swann's frozen pizza made in a toaster oven, but was damn delicious. 

They provide the hikers with a little shade, or hide us from the rest of the resort guests. Chatted for quite a while with section and thru hikers. Met Mara, Knoll, Coach, Concrete, Steppenwolf, Daytripper, One Step, Bam-Bam, a fine couple that still needs names, and a handful of others. 

Snagged this gem from the hiker box!

This was Neon's last day on the trail, she goes home to real life tomorrow. I'm so glad she was able to join me on this crazy adventure, and it's going to be strange not sharing the beauty and frustrations out here with her each day. 

Thanks for being here, lady. 

Hike your hike. 

Find your Happy

I laid down to write about our day, and I thought I was going to write about how hot it was. How dusty. How the 11 miles felt like 20. How tired we were from a soft, sandy, seemingly endless uphill climb to our next campsite. 

And then I looked at my pictures from the day. 

Sunrise at Oldenburg Lake, where we camped last night. 

Got to see a handful of horses. Even though I'd love if they took their mess with them, it's impossible not to smile when they go by. 

We're in Deschutes! 

#FindLove 

Diamond View Lake, our home for the night. 

Can't beat this after a long day! 

So although our day was long, and hot, and dusty, and maybe we could start calling ourselves The Blister Sisters...there was actually a whole lot of awesome in there too. I just had to remember it was there. 

Lucky Day 13

After smashing two 16 mile days, we decided to sleep in a bit and have a bit of a chill day. 

Since we camped near the trail junction to a spring, we had several visitors while we were having our leisurely brunch. Met a Southbound hiker named Leaker, caught up with a family we met briefly yesterday, and a great guy named Birdy from Switzerland. 

He's done research on policies about aging for the U.N. and will be visiting his grandchildren when he's done hiking for a bit. Wish we could have chatted with him longer!

We've walked through several burn areas on our hike so far. It's very jarring walking out of lush greenery into these dead zones. The wind sounds different, the smell isn't the same, and I know I'm thinking many areas of the PCT and entire west coast are a lightning strike (or careless hiker) away from a scene like this. But today, there were wildflowers growing among the burnt trees. 

Always nice to have a few encouraging signs letting you know you're going the right way! 

We veered off the actual PCT to take the Oregon Skyline Trail. We've been told it doesn't have the sky-high views of the higher elevation PCT, but there are a few lakes to camp near that are worth the different route.  

Neon, refreshing in Oldenburg Lake. 

Nice enough out to sleep without the rain covers on our tents for the first time, and clear enough to see all the stars!

A Dozen Days

Last night a windstorm blustered its way around the mountain while we slept. Found a way to sleep through that, but I'm pretty sure some rocks were sliding down the mountain at some point. In my dream, I was Frodo hiding while the Nazgul rode by. 

Our first task was to cross the gorgeous stream we refilled at last night. 

Success and dry feet!

We decided to push another 16 mile day to reach the next water stop. We took turns leading and stopped for frequent snacks. Eating feels more like shoveling coal into a furnace at this point. Gotta keep it moving!

Even though we technically best this high point when we did the Crater Lake Rim Trail and the lookout, you don't pass up a photo op when you look this good! 

Some breaks are more productive than others. 

The trail alternated between shade dappled forests and scorching, golden pumice fields, with some hair-raising ledges thrown in for fun. 

Up late enough to see the sunset for a change, thanks to thru hiker Gypsy stopping by to eat and chat with us. 

I'll See Your Lake and Raise You a Mountain

From the un-glorious but easy water spigots of the Mazama Campgrounds at Crater Lake to the next water source is about 26 miles. We accomplished a respectable 10 miles yesterday, but that left us with a record 16 to do today. 

(Last night's campsite at Grouse Hill)

Thanks to Whoopsie's attention to the clock, we left at a decent time, and set a blistering pace. (Who's Whoopsie? A rockstar of a hiker, breast cancer survivor, Iron Man finisher. In her 60s. Boom.)

Blue skies and gentle terrain, mostly downhill, helped us log 11 miles by 1pm. We're getting stronger and faster every day. There also may have been Nutella involved. You don't need to know all our secrets. 

When the challenge increased, so did the rewards. I've never even heard of this place, and I've never seen anything so striking. 

Mt Theilsen 

Impressive from a distance, I don't think any of us were prepared for how spectacular this thing would look when we got closer. 

So many different rocky things going on here, I wish we had a geology guide with us. 

Honestly. I think I'm more impressed by this than I was Crater Lake. Significantly less tourists, too. The trail leads to the other side for more views. 

Oregon is just showing off now. 

Another couple twisty miles to Thielsen Creek, and unexpected beauty. 

This state just doesn't quit. 

Crater Lake, Seriously

Before I can tell you about finally getting to the lake, I have to share our amazing 'trail angel' story. 

This is Spencer. He was our waiter last night, and let us take up his table, charge our gadgets, and spread out our maps and resupply boxes for FAR too long. When we mentioned that we needed to go to the post office, miles out of our way on a road not really safe for walking, he offered to drive us. At 9:30 in the morning. On his day off. 

He then drove us up to the rim, and walked with us and told us what he could about the lake. Since he's an actor and not a geologist, the facts were sparse but entertaining. 

Spencer, you're a rockstar, and pretty much the only reason we made our goal camp today. 

Whoopsie, Neon, and Muffin. 

AND A LAKE!

So here we are! Crater Lake! I now have 6 dozen different pictures of it. From different angles, different heights, with different trees framing it... none of the pictures come close. If you've been here, you know this. If you haven't been here, you should. 

So thrilled that someone had the vision to keep this place pristine instead of developing it to death. I'm looking forward to coming back when I have more time!

Dropped our packs to hike to the Lookout tower, which was well worth it. 

Over 8000 feet, our highest point on our section!

Almost 10 miles today. Not bad considering all the chatting and picture taking! Our campsite is gorgeous, and apparently home to some mule deer! 

10 days! Pretty awesome!

Crater Lake! Almost...

We camped just a few miles outside the border to Crater Lake National Park. Thought I picked a flat spot, but I woke up completely on the other side of the tent! 

Onwards to Day 9!

(No lake yet.)

Blue skies forever today! 

(Not a lake.)

What a great milestone to hit! 

Still not near the lake though. 

(How many miles does a girl have to hike to see a volcano inside a lake inside a volcano, anyway?)

When you know you're close to a shower, a burger, and a cold pop...hiking on the road is pretty much the absolute worst. 

(Lake? Nope.)

(I give up on the lake. Stuff a burger in my face.)

Hot food that someone else made AND someone just fetches water and brings it to you! With ICE! 

We got our resupply boxes from the store and rearranged our food for the next stretch. Not excited to add weight to the pack, but pretty thrilled to hike the Crater Lake rim tomorrow and finally see the lake for the first time ever! 

(The actual lake of Crater Lake, BTW, is another 6 mile hike. Prettier pictures next time!)